tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35918302788204521422024-03-05T09:25:53.055-08:00The Kitchen FrontThe Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.comBlogger129125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-78321104176632230002014-05-08T10:08:00.000-07:002014-05-08T10:08:37.505-07:00Egging me on<div class="MsoNormal">
Sorry for the long break, I guess I ran out of puff after a breakneck posting pace to start the year. The good news is I just got back from three weeks visiting D. in the United Kingdom and feel re-energized for food and cooking, and so I hope to have some regular content coming at you soon. In the meantime, here's a recipe that was sitting in my drafts since March. Even though its a product of the Winter That Wouldn't End, it's bright and light enough to be perfect for spring. Great for dinner or as a starter.</div>
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<b>Avgolemono (Greek lemon soup)<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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Makes about 4 to 6 servings<o:p></o:p></div>
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4 cups chicken stock<o:p></o:p></div>
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¾ cups white rice<o:p></o:p></div>
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2 large eggs<o:p></o:p></div>
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Juice of 1 lemon<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 or 2 cups cooked chicken, shredded (optional)<o:p></o:p></div>
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Salt and pepper<o:p></o:p></div>
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Chopped parsley<o:p></o:p></div>
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In a medium pot, heat stock to boiling. Stir in rice and
reduce to a simmer for 15-20 minutes until rice is cooked. Remove from heat and
keep warm.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Meanwhile, separate eggs, reserving whites for another use.
Whisk yolks together, then start adding hot stock from the pot, ¼ Cup at a time,
whisking continuously, until you have added about 1 cup hot stock (mixture should
be hot. This step ensures the eggs don’t curdle).<o:p></o:p></div>
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Add hot egg mixture to pot with rice and stir. Add chicken,
if using, stir in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Adjust
seasonings (feel free to add more lemon juice to taste), ladle soup into bowls,
and sprinkle with parsley and serve.<o:p></o:p></div>
The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-63774442442066255952014-03-04T10:07:00.001-08:002014-03-04T10:07:29.199-08:00Comfort me with noodles<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">If you have been reading along this
year, you probably noticed I’ve been making a lot of references to the weather. Which
makes a lot of sense when you consider this 2014 winter has been the crappiest
I’ve experienced since I lived in Edmonton. And when you consider crappy
winters are par for the course there, that has to put this atypically cold and
miserable T.O. winter in the running for worst winter ever. It's a miserable state with the small comfort of knowing millions of people here and elsewhere are going through the same thing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">So: how about a nice, belly-warming, </span>tongue<span style="font-size: small;">-tingling bowl of noodles?</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;">This recipe, from my old
go-to Nigel Slater’s most recent book </span><a href="http://www.amazon.ca/Eat-Nigel-Slater/dp/0007526156/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393956223&sr=8-1&keywords=nigel+slater+eat" style="font-size: 12pt;" target="_blank">Eat</a><span style="font-size: small;">, has a lot to </span>recommend<span style="font-size: small;"> it. Cubes of rich, fatty
pork, chewy noodles, the numbing heat of Szechuan peppercorns, all balanced
with the sweetness of honey and a zap of lime juice. It’s a bit heavy and
certainly not going to help you hit your recommended serving of fruits and
vegetables (I’d suggest some steamed bok choi on the side), but it’s delicious
and comforting. If heat is not your thing, I’d suggest adding fewer Szechuan peppercorns, as they
can be a bit overpowering.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Pork belly with lime and Szechuan peppercorns <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">250 g pork belly, skin
removed<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">2 tsp coarsely ground Szechuan
peppercorns, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">2 tablespoons honey<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">¼ fresh lime juice limes<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">One package thick yellow miki
or Shanghai noodles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Cut pork belly into cubes
about 3cm thick. Heat 2 tablespoons of canola oil in a pan. When the oil is
very hot, add the meat. Brown on all sides, then add Szechuan peppercorns and
cook until fragrant, about a minute. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Add honey and lime juice and
cook a bit until mixture starts to thicken.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Add noodles and 4 tablespoons
of chopped chives and cook, stirring frequently, until noodles are warm and
coated with liquid. Serve with chopped scallions and an extra squeeze of lime
juice.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-83490553019117980652014-02-20T08:56:00.001-08:002014-02-20T08:56:28.418-08:00Sunshine banishes the darkYeah, it's still February, but it's not too early to start thinking about summer. Hell, at this point, I can think of little else. Summer means patio season and patio season means patio drinks. Last year was all about the Aperol spritz, the year before the Campari Americano. The early contender for the drink of summer 2014? The Campari Shandy<br />
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<a href="http://d2k9njawademcf.cloudfront.net/indeximages/34764/full/photo_2.jpg?1380104228" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://d2k9njawademcf.cloudfront.net/indeximages/34764/full/photo_2.jpg?1380104228" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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Campari Shandy<br />
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1.5 ounces Campari<br />
12 ounces lager or pilsner-style beer.<br />
1 juicy lime or lemon wedge<br />
<br />
Pour the Campari into a chilled glass. Add the beer, and stir briefly to mix. Squeeze the lime wedge into the glass, and then drop the wedge in. Serve immediately.<br />
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(recipe and photo from <a href="http://orangette.blogspot.ca/" target="_blank">Orangette</a>)The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-61932723490754237162014-02-14T08:57:00.001-08:002014-02-14T08:57:08.073-08:00Doldrums<div class="MsoNormal">
I suppose it was inevitable that I would fall off the
blistering bogging pace I set in January. Chalk it up to the winter doldrums, plus
the bout of food poisoning that hit me after a weekend trip to Montreal (picked
up, I’m embarrassed to say, from a rare and ill-advised rendezvous with the golden
arches) or maybe the fact that I’ve been living on mostly quick, boring recipes
that I haven’t deemed worth sharing. So yes, I have fallen off the pace a bit
here.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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I wish I could say I had something super fresh and new in
store today, but, nope: just more soup. In fact, it’s another curry soup, so I’ll
forgive you a sense of déjà vu from my last post. That said, it’s a damn good soup,
a Thai-inspired curry soup given a bit of a twist with the addition of dried
New Mexican chilis to add a hint of smokiness and complexity to what is a rich
and silky concoction. Give it a try while I try to find something to eat
that’s not soup.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Chicken Khao Soi (from Bon Appetit)</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Spice paste:<o:p></o:p></div>
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4 large dried New Mexico or guajillo chiles, stemmed,
halved, seeded<o:p></o:p></div>
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2 medium shallots, halved<o:p></o:p></div>
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8 garlic cloves<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 2" piece ginger, peeled, sliced<o:p></o:p></div>
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1/4 cup chopped cilantro stems<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 tablespoon ground coriander<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 tablespoon ground turmeric<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 teaspoon curry powder<o:p></o:p></div>
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Soup:<o:p></o:p></div>
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2 tablespoons vegetable oil<o:p></o:p></div>
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2 14-ounce cans unsweetened coconut milk<o:p></o:p></div>
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2 cups low-sodium chicken broth<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 1/2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken thighs, halved
lengthwise<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 pound Chinese egg noodles<o:p></o:p></div>
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3 tablespoons (or more) fish sauce (such as nam pla or nuoc
nam)<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 tablespoon (packed) palm sugar or light brown sugar<o:p></o:p></div>
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Kosher salt<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Accompaniments:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sliced red onion, bean sprouts, cilantro sprigs, crispy
fried onions or shallots, chili oil, and lime wedges.<o:p></o:p></div>
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For the khao soi paste: <o:p></o:p></div>
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Place chilis in a small heatproof bowl, add boiling water to
cover, and let soak until softened, 25-30 minutes. Drain, reserving soaking
liquid. Purée chilis, shallots, garlic, ginger, cilantro stems, coriander,
turmeric, curry powder, and 2 tablespoons soaking liquid in a food processor,
adding more soaking liquid by the tablespoon until smooth.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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For soup: <o:p></o:p></div>
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Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add khao soi
paste; cook, stirring constantly, until slightly darkened, 4-6 minutes. Add
coconut milk and broth. Bring to a boil; add chicken. Reduce heat and simmer
until chicken is fork-tender, 20-25 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate. Let
cool slightly; shred meat.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Meanwhile, cook noodles according to package directions.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Add chicken, 3 tablespoons fish sauce, and sugar to soup.
Season with salt or more fish sauce, if needed. Divide noodles among bowls, add
soup and top with your choice of accompaniment.<o:p></o:p></div>
The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-7332589398941445932014-01-25T12:55:00.002-08:002014-01-25T12:55:47.816-08:00Cold comfort soup IIThe Polar Vortex returned this week, so I hunkered down over a few pots of soup. It took me a while to come around on soup as a meal unto itself; the idea of drinking your dinner lacked the appeal of something more toothsome. But I've come around, especially on those days where the wind rattles the windows and dashes snow across the lake.<div>
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Aside from its comforting properties, soup makes for quality leftovers, a definite boon when you're cooking for one. A single batch of soup can yield three or four lunches or dinners, a great advantage when your imagination or energy levels flag.</div>
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This is a soup that D. introduced me to, a rich and spicy concoction with a great complexity of flavour. Making the spice paste from scratch is essential, if not the entire point, but there's considerable room for improvisation when it comes to what goes in after: it's a great way to use up leftover roast chicken, for example.</div>
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<o:p><b>Spicy noodle soup</b></o:p></div>
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For the spice paste</div>
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3 inch piece of lemon grass, chopped</div>
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2 Thai chilis, chopped or 2 tsp chili paste</div>
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½ inch piece of galangal, grated</div>
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½ inch piece of ginger, grated</div>
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3 cloves garlic, minced</div>
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1 small onion, chopped</div>
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¼ tsp tumeric</div>
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2 tsp fish sauce</div>
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Everything else</div>
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3 tbsp vegetable oil</div>
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½ pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, cubed.*</div>
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1 thinly sliced red pepper**</div>
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3 cups chicken stock</div>
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2 cups coconut milk</div>
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4 or 5 kafir lime leaves***</div>
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A bunch of egg noodles or thin rice vermicelli, </div>
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Prepare and combine all the spice paste ingredients and whiz
them together using a food processor or hand blender to form a coarse, thick
paste.</div>
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Heat the oil in a large heavy bottomed pot over medium heat.
Add spice paste and fry for a minute or two until fragrant and no longer “raw”.</div>
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Add the peppers and story fry for five minutes, then add
chicken and fry for another five minutes until golden.</div>
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Add the stock, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer
for 10 minutes.</div>
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Add the coconut milk and kafir lime leaves and simmer for
another five minutes. Check the taste, adding salt, lime juice, fish sauce or
hot sauce for balance if needed.</div>
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Meanwhile, prepare noodles in a separate pot of water
according to package instructions. Drain and rinse under cold water. Drain
again and divide among serving bowls and top with the curry.</div>
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<i>*sub extra firm tofu in place of the
chicken</i></div>
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<i>** you can use any manner of vegetables in this. I used
peppers and tossed in some leftover roasted butternut squash at the end.</i></div>
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<i>***available at specialty or Asian grocery stores. If you
can’t find them, they are optional, but I’d suggest adding a big squeeze of
lime juice to the mix.</i></div>
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The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-28458384413713638482014-01-20T08:25:00.001-08:002014-01-20T08:25:06.120-08:00Chores<div class="MsoNormal">
I don’t know how single people do it. Between the cooking and
laundry and housecleaning, the last two weeks of living alone have been
exhausting. I suppose it would be easy enough to let things slide a bit, let
the dishes pile up, choose my shirts from a pile on the end of the bed, but I
fear my standards are too high these days. <o:p></o:p></div>
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My newfound inability to lower my standards has also spread to my
cooking. Take this past weekend, for example. On paper, eating salads for dinner
on a weekend is Lonely Person 101, but, as I continue to find to my delight, a
humble salad need not be dull (and doesn’t require anything as gauche as
dressing from a bottle)<o:p></o:p></div>
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Saturday night, I roasted a small chicken to give me something
to build meals around for the week. For a side: a roasted butternut squash and
arugula salad with wild rice and simple French vinaigrette. Sunday night was a good bunch of the now-ubiquitous kale, some more of the squash, a crumble of
soft goat cheese, toasted hazelnuts, dried cranberries, all brought together in
a warm, bacony vinaigrette, served just hot enough to wilt the tough leaves a
bit.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Warm Bacon Vinaigrette with thyme and shallot<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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4 pieces thick-sliced bacon, chopped into large bits<o:p></o:p></div>
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2 tablespoons red wine vinegar<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 teaspoon maple syrup<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 teaspoon Dijon mustard<o:p></o:p></div>
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A small shallot, finely chopped<o:p></o:p></div>
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A few sprigs of fresh thyme<o:p></o:p></div>
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Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste<o:p></o:p></div>
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In a large skillet, fry bacon bits over medium-high heat
until they’re brown and crisp and have rendered off their fat. Using a slotted
spoon, scoop them out of the skillet and spread them on a piece of paper towel
to drain, and then add to the salad with your greens etc.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Pour out all but two tablespoons of hot bacon fat from the
skillet, reserving the rest in a jar. Add shallot and thyme to skillet and cook
until shallot is softened. Remove the thyme and then add the vinegar, maple
syrup and Dijon mustard to the pan and whisk until mixture is emulsified.
Taste, and add extra fat or vinegar for balance, then pour over your assembled
salad.<o:p></o:p></div>
The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-44069056877554016072014-01-17T16:01:00.002-08:002014-01-17T16:01:25.183-08:00Cold comfort soup<i>Special guest post by D.</i><br />
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So I have left J. behind for a “writer’s
retreat” in northern England for 5 months to see if I can’t make some progress
on the ol’ PhD. I have been here about 9 days now and am still getting
accustomed to life across the pond. The grocery store takes me twice as long to
navigate as so many ingredients are different places and so many things I’m
used to finding easily are tough to hunt down (I’m looking at you rice wine
vinegar and rice crackers). On the upside, I have discovered “small chunk” <a href="http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=ycpnX7or4w_2sM&tbnid=bQxbYvZLSymKDM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bestofbritish.com.au%2Fd332-132%2Fbranston-small-chunk-pickle-360g&ei=2szWUo6UFqOp0QWNuYHADA&bvm=bv.59378465,d.ZG4&psig=AFQjCNE0S_d3Lwyv1iAlOSF2VDq8U3UC1Q&ust=1389895245351971">Branston
pickle</a> (which makes superior cheese and pickle sandwiches) and the produce
here is exceptionally good. </div>
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Since I have been feeling a little homesick for the
familiar comforts of life back in Toronto, I resorted to tried and true
recipes that never let me down. The Best of Bridge Mulligatawny Soup recipe is
one from my childhood and is really open to interpretation. This heartwarming soup is an Anglo-Indian concoction that can be made
vegetarian or, as I always do, with a bit of leftover chicken. While the Best of Bridge recipe here uses
curry powder and dried ginger I have in recent years been using grated fresh
ginger and curry paste instead and makes for a much spicier version with bolder
flavours. The yogurt gives the soup a
velvety consistency, while the lemon elevates everything on your palate while
tempering the heat. I had no carrots on hand, but threw in a few parsnips
languishing in the fridge that only made for a sweeter counterbalance to the
slow burn of the curry – tinker with it as you will.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Mulligatawny Soup (adapted from the <o:p></o:p></span>Best of Bridge cookbook)</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 Tbsp. butter</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">3 stalks celery, sliced<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">1 large potato, peeled and diced<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">2 large onions, finely chopped<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">4 cloves garlic, minced<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">2 carrots, diced<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">4 tsp. curry powder (or 1-2 Tbsps curry
paste)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">1/4 tsp. ground cloves<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">1/2 tsp. ground ginger (or about ½ - 1
Tbsp. of freshly grated)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">1 - 2 tsp. salt<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">1/2 tsp. pepper<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">8 cups chicken broth<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">3 cups cooked, diced chicken or turkey
(chickpeas would be great for a vegetarian version)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">3 cups cooked rice<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and grated<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="FR-CA">2 Tbsp.
lemon juice<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="FR-CA">1 cup plain
yogurt<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In a large pot, melt butter and saute
celery, potato, onion, garlic, carrot and seasonings for 5 minutes. Add broth
and simmer 20 minutes. Add chicken, rice, apples and lemon juice. Before
serving add yogurt and heat to near boiling. 18 ladles worth. </div>
The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-88657060676341495812014-01-14T13:57:00.001-08:002014-01-14T13:57:19.201-08:00A fishy requisite<div class="MsoNormal">
Last week business and general
laziness combined to send me on a brief streak of eating out. After some BBQ
here, noodles there, some take out Chinese over here, I was ready for something
on the lighter side. </div>
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<br />
<a name='more'></a></div>
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Now, I often joke to D. about all the things I eat now that I
never would have touched in days past, fish being pretty high up there. And
though I have come to eat fish, I still have a few ground rules. I’m picky about how it’s prepared
(I still refuse to eat a fish that is served in its entirety. A whole fish
lying there on a platter just creeps me out), which limits what kinds of fish I
enjoy (basically, it’s whitefish or salmon or bust). It also needs to be super
fresh and relatively local and sustainable, so supermarket shrink-wrapped stuff
of dubious provenance is right out. The upshot of these ground rules is I <i>still</i> don’t eat very much fish. But when
I do, I <i>like </i>it.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This salmon prep is quite similar to the <a href="http://thekitchenfront.blogspot.ca/2013/05/fish-out-of-water.html#more" target="_blank">miso marinated black cod recipe</a> I posted many moons ago, but it’s a little less fussy. You don’t have to marinate it for long and
broiling is a pretty foolproof method as long as you’re on the ball. You'll need to manage the time based on the thickness of the fillets: mine were on the thin side and 10 minutes left them a touch overcooked.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Miso-marinated salmon </b><a href="http://www.marthastewart.com/866581/miso-salmon-cilantro-salsa" target="_blank">(via Martha Stewart)</a><br />
1 cup white miso</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1/3 cup rice vinegar<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1/2 cup light-brown sugar, packed, plus one 1 teaspoon<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
4 salmon fillets (6 to 8 ounces each)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 tablespoons flaxseed oil<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In a medium saucepan combine miso, vinegar, 1/2 cup brown
sugar, and 1/3 cup water. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until
miso and sugar have dissolved; cool to room temperature. Combine salmon and
miso mixture in a bowl or reaseable plastic bag. Marinate in the refrigerator
for at least 2 hours.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Heat broiler with the rack in the highest position. Lift
salmon from marinade and place on an oiled rack over a baking sheet. Broil
salmon until cooked through, about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
Speaking of things I wouldn't have touched with a ten-foot fork a few years back, I've been dabbling a bit of late in leafy greens that aren't kale. I've made smoothies with spinach for breakfast (surprisingly tasty). I have tried, unsuccessfully as it turns out, to not hate rapini. I bought dandelion greens in Chinatown (more on that tomorrow) and am coming around to chard. Turns out, it's pretty easy to eat your humble greens when you've braised them in some lovely coconut milk with fragrant chilis, garlic and ginger. I expect (and will try to confirm) this prep would work just as well with spinach, kale or most other green leafy vegetables. Except rapini; I'm pretty sure that stuff is hopeless.<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Creamy Swiss Chard with Coconut</b> (also via <a href="http://www.marthastewart.com/1038839/creamy-swiss-chard-coconut" target="_blank">Martha Stewart</a>)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 small onion, finely diced (about 1 cup)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 cloves garlic, minced<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 tablespoons grated peeled fresh ginger<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 small dried hot red chili<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 pounds Swiss chard (3 to 4 bunches), stems removed, torn
into 2-inch pieces (about 12 packed cups)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1/2 cup light coconut milk<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 tablespoons water<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Coarse salt<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion, garlic,
ginger, and chili and cook until tender and fragrant, 6 to 8 minutes. Add chard
leaves, coconut milk, and water. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until
chard is tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Season with salt.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-89099521525478962642014-01-09T06:33:00.001-08:002014-01-09T06:33:57.937-08:00Back to Jerusalem<div class="MsoNormal">
Yesterday was a bitterly cold day, with winds and biting air
reminiscent of winter in Edmonton. Started the day with some leftover polenta
and eggs. Lunch was a green salad with beets, stilton cheese and the nutty
vinaigrette from the last post. Got some bad news regarding a job I was
interested in, which drove me into the arms of a Tim Horton’s doughnut that someone
had brought into the office. It didn’t help. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For dinner, I defrosted a lump of
mystery ground meat (likely a mix of beef and veal, a byproduct of a long ago Bolognese
sauce) and put together a version of Yotam Ottolenghi’s braised eggs with lamb,
tahini, and sumac, deviating from the recipe in the choice of meat and the
method for the eggs (I poached mine separately). I also stirred in some spinach
for a little greenery. This version wasn’t as good as the original, which is
one of my favourites so far from “Jerusalem.” If you haven't picked up "<o:p></o:p>Jerusalem" or its vegetable-centric cousin "Plenty," I would highly recommend doing so.</div>
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</div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Braised Eggs with
Lamb, Tahini, & Sumac<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Serves 4<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 tablespoon olive oil<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 large onion, finely chopped (1 1/4 cups total)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
300 g ground lamb<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 teaspoons sumac, plus extra to garnish<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 teaspoon ground cumin<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Scant 1/2 cup toasted, unsalted pistachios, coarsely chopped<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
7 tablespoons toasted pine nuts<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 teaspoons harissa paste<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 tablespoon finely chopped preserved lemon peel<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 1/3 cups (about 1 pint) cherry tomatoes<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1/2 cup chicken stock<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
4 large free-range eggs<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1/4 cup cilantro leaves</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Salt and freshly ground black pepper<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Yogurt Sauce<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="FR-CA">Scant 1/2
cup Greek yogurt<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="FR-CA">1 1/2
tablespoons tahini paste<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 tablespoon water<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a medium,
heavy-bottomed frying pan for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Add the onion
and garlic and sauté for 6 minutes to soften and color a bit. Raise the heat to
high, add the lamb, and brown well, 5 to 6 minutes. Season with the sumac, cumin,
3/4 teaspoon salt, and some black pepper and cook for another minute. Turn off
the heat, stir in the nuts, harissa, and preserved lemon and set aside.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
While the onion is cooking, heat a separate small cast-iron
or other heavy pan over high heat. Once piping hot, add the cherry tomatoes and
char for 4 to 6 minutes, tossing them in the pan occasionally, until slightly
blackened on the outside. Set aside.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Prepare the yogurt sauce by whisking together all the
ingredients with a pinch of salt. It needs to be thick and rich, but you may
need to add a splash of water if it is stiff.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You can leave the meat, tomatoes, and sauce at this stage
for up to an hour. When you are ready to serve, reheat the meat, add the
chicken stock, and bring to a boil. Make 4 small wells in the mix and break an
egg into each well. Cover the pan and cook the eggs over low heat for 3
minutes. Place the tomatoes on top, avoiding the yolks, cover again, and cook
for 5 minutes, until the egg whites are cooked but the yolks are still runny.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Remove from the heat and dot with dollops of the yogurt
sauce, sprinkle with sumac, and finish with the cilantro. Serve at once.<o:p></o:p></div>
The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-32205260089810520402014-01-07T08:34:00.000-08:002014-01-07T08:34:37.083-08:00A Nutty Vinaigrette<div class="MsoNormal">
We took a bit of a circuitous route out west for the
holidays. Flying across Canada is fiendishly expensive, so we ended up driving
down to Buffalo, flying to Seattle and taking the bus up to Vancouver. In
addition to saving us a couple hundred bucks, this journey had the added bonus
of enabling us to stop for breakfast at one of our favourite spots in Seattle:
Belltown fixture Le Pichet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<a name='more'></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The first time I went to Le Pichet was when I was in Seattle
for a work trip in 2008. I was staying down the road at the Ace Hotel. The
coffee was delicious, the baguettes fresh and the décor and overall vibe wholly
Paris by the Puget Sound. The next time, I took D. and we’ve made a point of
stopping in, usually for breakfast (a croque-monsieur, perhaps, or just a pain
au chocolat), whenever we’re in town.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This time, we ate eggs with ham and gruyere and some wonderful
country style pork pâté, but the surprise highlight was a simple green salad with
a delicious, nutty vinaigrette. It was so good, we had to ask the waitress how
it was made and, to our delight, she suggested we check out the recipe on Le
Pichet owner Jim Drohman’s <a href="http://jimdrohman.com/blog/2012/02/07/salade-verte/" target="_blank">blog</a>. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now, at first blush, it looks like a bit of work, but now
that I’ve made it a couple of times, I think I’ve hit on a couple of shortcuts
that can save a bit of time without compromising the flavour. Once you get
those down, you’ll find it’s actually a versatile and adaptable recipe. For
example, the first time I made this, I subbed in walnuts for the hazelnuts,
which changed the flavour, but was no less delicious. Here’s the original recipe,
with annotations.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A Nutty Vinaigrette<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 cup orange juice<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 small shallot<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1/2 cup sherry vinegar<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1/3 cup organic Duchilly hazelnuts (for the vinaigrette)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
About 1 cup soy oil<sup>1</sup><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 head organic Bibb lettuce<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1/2 cup organic Duchilly hazelnuts (for garnish)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Heat the orange juice to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce
to 1/2 cup<sup>2</sup>. Cool. Toast the hazelnuts and cool. Peel and roughly
chop the shallot.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Put the reduced orange juice, shallot, sherry vinegar,
hazelnuts, and Dijon mustard in the blender<sup>3</sup>. Season with salt and
pepper. Blend at high speed until homogeneous.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With the blender running, add the oil slowly until
vinaigrette is the consistency of heavy cream. The actual amount of oil
required may be slightly more or less. Do not let the blender run too long, as
the vinaigrette will break if it gets too warm.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Taste the vinaigrette to adjust the seasoning. Add more salt
or pepper if needed. If the vinaigrette is too acidic, add more oil with the
blender running. If the vinaigrette gets too thick, thin with a bit of water.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Toss a little vinaigrette with lettuce, salt and ground
fresh pepper.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<sup>1 </sup>Any neutral oil such as canola or safflower
will work. I’ll also point out here that if you don’t have sherry vinegar, red
or white wine will work as well.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<sup>2 </sup>To save some time, substitute a tablespoon or
so of orange juice concentrate.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<sup>3 </sup>I used a food processor the second time I made
this, which produced a much more textured product. Not in a bad way at all, just
more crunchy than smooth. What I’m saying is, if you have a food processor or
decent hand blender, you’re fine.<sup><o:p></o:p></sup></div>
The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-43950951758275938282014-01-06T12:03:00.002-08:002014-01-06T12:04:08.145-08:00Out on the weekendFriday night was D’s big send-off, which started at Gusto 101, a former garage that is now a noisy Italian spot. For a place catering heavily to the King Street crowd in their Canada Goose jackets, the food was surprisingly good. Particularly noteworthy: the <a href="http://toromagazine.com/lifestyle/food/toro-tv/20130726/gusto-101-kale-salad">Tuscan kale salad</a> and the house wine on tap. After that, it was off to the west end for pint at the Communist’s Daughter (still Toronto’s best bar) followed by several more down the road at Get Well, with its outstanding and ever-changing craft beer selection that on this night included a coffee ale from Nickel Brook that wowed me. Later we poured ourselves into a cab home.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Saturday morning: having somehow, someway dodged the hangover bullet, we spend the suddenly warm winter day shuffling around the apartment as D. dealt with some last minute trip plans. Later we meet in Kensington Market where we each wolf down a pork schnitzel sandwich from Sanagan’s while shopping for supplies for a quiet, fancy dinner at home for the two of us. From our butcher we have two generously sized filets mignon, crusted with salt and pepper, pan-seared and finished in the oven until perfectly pink. Roasted red beets and horseradish cream add a Jackson Pollock swirl of bright violet to the plates. A purée of celery root and parsnips on the side brings softness and a creamy sweetness.<br />
<br />
<b>Celery root and parsnip purée</b><br />
Four or five good sized parsnips, peeled and chopped into 1/2-inch-thick slices<br />
A small celery root, peeled, scrubbed and chopped.<br />
3-4 tablespoons butter<br />
1/4 cup chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth<br />
1 teaspoon fine sea salt<br />
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper<br />
<br />
Put celery root in a pot with plenty of cold water to cover. Place over moderately high heat, cover, and bring to a boil. After about five minutes add the parsnips and boil for another 15 minutes until everything is nice and tender. Drain and transfer to a food processor. Add butter, stock and some salt and pepper and puree until smooth. If you don’t have a food processor, you can mash by hand, but the goal here is to end up with a light and smooth purée. Transfer to a large serving dish and serve.<br />
<br />
Sunday: I make polenta with a fried egg and a bit of bacon for breakfast while D. finishes packing. I can never get the hang of polenta; mine's always too thick and heavy but good enough in a pinch. As the afternoon starts to fade, we say our goodbyes. I am on my own for the next long while. Bachelor life begins with a leftover mashup: the last of the pork from the carnitas stirred into the kimchi fried rice, topped with green onions and a heavy hand of hot sauce. I watch hockey and stay up too late, as I always do when left to my own devices. The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-44498412235766122752014-01-03T10:21:00.000-08:002014-01-03T10:21:37.797-08:00Pan AsianLast night's supper did double duty: healthy enough to meet the requirements of a new year's resolution with enough heat to banish the winter's cold and darkness. First, crispy <a href="http://www.alexandracooks.com/2013/01/02/detox-sesame-crusted-tofu-with-nuoc-cham/" target="_blank">sesame-crusted cubes of tofu </a>with a spicy dipping sauce derived from Momofuku's Red Dragon Sauce (recipe <a href="http://www.oregonlive.com/mix/index.ssf/vegan-vegetarian-recipes/korean_fried_noodles_with_momofuku_dragon_sauce.html" target="_blank">here</a>; I used gochujang red pepper paste and rice vinegar), followed up with <a href="http://thekitchenfront.blogspot.ca/2013/03/ssam-of-these-days.html#more" target="_blank">kimchi fried rice</a>, all topped with a healthy glug of sriracha (hope you've <a href="http://www.csmonitor.com/USA/2013/1213/Sriracha-shortage-California-holds-the-hot-sauce-and-foodies-are-fuming.-video" target="_blank">stocked up</a>).<br />
<br />
When we make tofu, we usually just marinate it and bake it to crispness in the oven, but this might be my new favourite preparation. Next time, I'll use bigger pieces (the cubes are kind of a pain to dredge) and add a little something extra like shichimi tōgarashi to the breading for a little kick.<br />
<br />
<b>Sesame-Crusted Tofu</b><br />
Serves 2<br />
1 lb. (about) extra-firm tofu<br />
1 egg<br />
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt<br />
3 tablespoons panko bread crumbs<br />
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds<br />
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds<br />
canola oil for frying<br />
sliced scallions for garnish)<br />
<br />
1. Drain the tofu as much as possible. Beat the egg and a teaspoon of water in a small flat bottomed bowl or dish. Stir together the salt, panko and sesame seeds on a plate.<br />
<br />
2. Slice the tofu, then cut into large, but bite-sized cubes. Working with one piece at a time, submerge the tofu into the egg, then dredge in the sesame-panko mix, and set aside.<br />
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3. Heat a large nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add about tablespoon of oil. Fry the tofu in batches until crispy and brown on all sides. Garnish with scallions and serve with dipping sauce.The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-12316690103626829662014-01-02T07:47:00.002-08:002014-01-03T10:21:24.479-08:00Simple perfection.<div class="MsoNormal">
The new year dawned cold and grey, the kind of day best
spent tucked up indoors. Glad I planned ahead and stocked up: beef bacon and
poached eggs for breakfast; long, slow-cooking pork carnitas for dinner. The
smell of pork shoulder melting into a chili- and citrus-spiked broth in the oven
filled the apartment all day, chasing the chills away. Simple perfection for a
lazy new year’s day.</div>
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Take a three to four pound piece of pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into big cubes and toss it into a Dutch oven with a
half cup of orange juice, a quarter cup of lime juice, some peeled and crushed
garlic cloves, spices ( a bit of cumin, chili powders, cinnamon if you want, salt
definitely) and enough water to almost but not quite cover the pork. Cook
uncovered in a 350 degree oven for a good three or four hours, turning occasionally until
the liquid has mostly evaporated and the pork is happily falling to shreds. Remove
from oven and place the pot on the stovetop on medium high heat and cook until
the remaining liquid has vanished and the pork is acquires a crispy character.
Serve with fresh corn tortillas, avocado, pickled red onions, hotsauce, Mexican
crema or sour cream and ice cold beer.<o:p></o:p>
The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-49434603929807750252013-12-30T13:25:00.001-08:002013-12-30T13:25:19.201-08:00Rear viewWith 2013 fading into the distance behind us, a quick glace in the rear view mirror is hard to resist. Obviously this was not the most productive year here at the Kitchen Front (I see by getting this last post in under the wire, I have 12 posts in all of 2013. Can I maintain this blistering one-post-per-month pace in 2014? Stay tuned to see!). I'd like to say that was due to some big thing like, say, working on a book or something, but the truth is, I really felt like I didn't have a lot to say about what I've been cooking. No particular reason, just pure laziness.
The good news (if you care about reading about what I'm cooking/eating) is that I'll probably have a bit more time on my hands in the new year. You see, my partner in life, the oft-mentioned D. is going to be spending the next few months over in jolly Old England doing some work on her PhD, leaving me to keep the home fires burning. The challenge, then: live like a bachelor without eating like a bachelor if you catch my drift. So that's my project for the first half of 2014: keep this as a running diary of my attempts to stay away from frozen lasagnas and to eat my vegetables, starting January 5. If you haven't heard from me by March, chances are I've either starved to death or have got too fat to use a normal keyboard.
Happy new year!
The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-64529722768957559782013-08-22T10:47:00.000-07:002013-08-28T09:36:08.860-07:00Hey: where’d the summer go? <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/9569245855/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7304/9569245855_cf8bd22e4a.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Solo summer dinner: roast chicken club salad, G&T and the latest BA.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I honestly can’t remember a summer that went by so quickly while never quite feeling all that summery. We mostly missed out on the suffocating moist heat that has choked Toronto the past couple of summers, but neither did we have very many truly “nice” days. At least, that’s how it seems it retrospect. Part of it maybe was due to spending the early part of the summer settling into our new apartment, getting the place set up and painted. Or maybe it’s just that summer is kind of lame (I’m a <a href="http://www.theonion.com/articles/mr-autumn-man-walking-down-street-with-cup-of-coff,29866/">Mr. Autumn Man</a> if there ever was one).<br />
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That said, summer 2013 had its moments. The Swedish Chef rolled through town, which saw us hit Momofuku Noodle Bar for a gut-busting fried chicken feast. (See <a href="http://instagram.com/p/b40lS6wB27/">here</a> and <a href="http://instagram.com/p/b4niKewKCl/">here</a> for our respective perspectives).<br />
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The high water mark of our summer was back during the August long weekend, when D and I headed “up north” to a rental cabin up between North Bay and Algonquin Park for a weekend of canoeing, star-gazing, beer-drinking, book-reading, relaxing and grilling. Ah, grilling. I miss it. I did some wonderful giant steaks, grilled spice rubbed chicken (using the rub from <a href="http://smittenkitchen.com/blog/2013/07/slow-and-low-dry-rub-oven-chicken/" target="_blank">here</a>) and some sausages. But the real revelation was the s’morewich. What is a s’morewich, you ask? Um, it’s a s’more sandwich, you novice. Nutella, marshmallow fluff, and graham crackers in a baguette. Watch the video <a href="http://everydayfoodblog.marthastewart.com/2013/07/todays-recipe-smores-sandwich.html" target="_blank">here</a> to learn all about it. Was it good? Well, I think <a href="http://instagram.com/p/cpK2hYwB7j/">my expression</a> says it all.<br />
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One thing that I’ve been trying out is to eat a little healthier during the day. Lunch is the meal where I end up eating the most crap and spending the most money; all those burritos and cookies add up in more ways than one. So for the last two weeks (bar one day) I’ve brought salad to work at lunch and snacked mainly on fruit (apples dipped with almond butter is the best thing) and nuts. It’s a small tweak really, but I do feel better during the day and the changes seems to be reflected in my bank balance, if not the size of my belly. I’ve also been cutting back a bit on beer (which is pretty tough given how many amazing craft beer places are popping up in this town) and drinking more gin and tonics. Gin and tonics are awesome.<br />
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Other than that, from both the life and food standpoints, it’s been relatively uneventful. While technically summer hangs around for a few weeks yet and we’ve got plenty on our plates before the leaves turn, I’m pretty ready and excited to put the ol’ sweater on and dig out the Dutch ovens.The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-36979190960420022582013-06-06T10:40:00.000-07:002013-06-06T10:40:37.843-07:00That My Lunch #5: hello deli<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8971117446/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="400" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/8971117446_89a128c707.jpg" width="305" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8969922725/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="400" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3778/8969922725_961c3fb957.jpg" width="299" /></a> Pastrami on rye with latkes and a black cherry soda.<br />
New Yorker Deli<br />
1140 Bay St <br />
Toronto, ON The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-86233040687939179452013-06-04T13:33:00.005-07:002013-06-04T13:33:56.168-07:00Settling inWell we moved. Moving sucks, but as these things go, this wasn’t too bad. We had lots of time to prepare and plenty of help with the move, so really the hard part has been just getting the place set up. It’s quite a bit smaller than our last place, so the big challenge is figuring out where to put everything, especially cook books and certain pantry staples (as a non-baker I question the need for so many baking supplies).<br />
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With that settled, it was time to test out our new, smaller kitchen. The early returns are promising and it feels good to be back to cooking after so many weeks of take out and restaurant meals. And so I decided to mark our latest move with tacos (which is becoming something of a <a href="http://thekitchenfront.blogspot.ca/2011/09/moving-on-up.html" target="_blank">tradition</a> for us)<br />
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I made these with a mix of brisket and beef cheeks (I had a small package in the freezer for ages with no idea what to do with it), but regular stew meat would suffice. It’s really all about the marinade, a rich, almost mole-like sauce which gets its depth from dried ancho chilis (found at specialty stores like La Tortilleria here in Toronto). Pickled red onions are basically mandatory for accompaniment.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8951911240/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="320" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8116/8951911240_77db6418b0.jpg" width="272" /></a><br />
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<strong>Braised beef tacos (adapted from <a href="http://food52.com/recipes/2731-barbacoa-beef-cheek-tacos" target="_blank">Food 52</a>)</strong><br />
2 1/2pounds beef cut into cubes<br />
4 cloves garlic, minced<br />
1 tablespoon natural peanut butter<br />
1 dried ancho chili<br />
1 teaspoon instant coffee or espresso<br />
2 tablespoons olive oil (plus 2 more for cooking)<br />
1 tablespoon honey<br />
2 teaspoons cumin<br />
1 teaspoon smoked sweet paprika<br />
1teaspoon salt<br />
3 limes<br />
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Place the dried chili in a bowl of very warm water and soak until soft. Remove the stem and seeds from the ancho, cut it up into chunks (reserve the water).<br />
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Put everything from the garlic to the salt (including the water from the chili) in a blender or food processor and blend into a paste. Toss the paste with the beef and marinate for several hours or overnight.<br />
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Heat the oven to 275, and heat 2 tbs olive oil in a dutch oven. Brown the beef in batches, add the reserved marinade with about a cup of water and the juice of three limes. Transfer the works to the oven.<br />
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Bake at 275 for 3 hours, turn the beef over once or twice while it cooks<br />
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When the beef is fall-apart tender, take the pan out of the oven. Using 2 forks, pull the meat apart in the pan and serve.<br />
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<strong>Lime Pickled Onions (adapted from Epicurious)</strong><br />
1 large red onion, thinly sliced<br />
¼ cup fresh lime juice<br />
2 teaspoons olive oil<br />
½ teaspoon dried oregano<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
½ tsp sugar<br />
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Mix all ingredients in large bowl. Cover and let stand 1 to 3 hours. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-82735973089419985562013-05-23T12:20:00.000-07:002013-06-04T13:34:49.520-07:00Fish out of water<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8699392842/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="400" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8556/8699392842_59b0daa165.jpg" width="298" /></a><br />
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It's been a flat out crazy couple of months for us here.<br />
<a name='more'></a>It all started back in early April with a few small itchy bumps on D's arm that led to the discovery that we somehow picked up a batch of bedbugs. If you've ever had bedbugs, you know what a horrible experience it is. If you haven't, consider yourself lucky and pray you never have to go through the experience of cleaning and scrubbing every thing you own, washing and drying every article of clothes and bedding, moving furniture and dealing with the chemical aftermath of a visit from the exterminators. We also ended up tossing our ancient mattress and box spring. It was a shitty experience made all the worse by our new landlord who blamed us for bringing the bugs in (though the discovery of the bugs coincided nicely with the move in of said new landlord and the gutting of the adjacent house, which had been home to some questionable hoarder types), withheld information about treatment, put off the treatment for more than a week, and generally acted like a total jerk throughout. Honestly, the bed bugs are more pleasant. That all carried over into regular landlord-tenant relations with her making a series of increasingly strict demands on us that culminated in us deciding we simply had to get out at any cost. So, after a long, stressful search for a new place (along with bed bugs, apartment hunting in Toronto is something I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy) we found a rental condo on the lakeshore, close to the heart of the city. And in about four days, we're moving in.<br />
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I'm pretty excited. It's a small place, which has meant we've had to get rid of a lot of stuff, but a little household purge never hurt anyone. And it's a relatively new place, which is a novelty itself. The kitchen is small, but I can tell you that, by Toronto condo standards, it's practically professional sized in the sense that more than one person can stand in it at the same time. And it has a dishwasher, which make sit light years ahead of any kitchen I've had since we left Edmonton almost 6 years ago.<br />
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All told, we're excited to be putting a shitty experience behind us and looking forward to exploring neighbourhoods we haven't checked out before and spending the summer on our balcony, looking out over the water with wine glasses in hand.<br />
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Today's recipe is one I made back before this whole business hit the fan. It's the most recent installment in my efforts to try to cook and eat more fish, something which was made all the easier by the addition of a good fishmonger to the Roncesvalles area late last year. Del la Mer, along with Rowe Farms, the Film Buff, Cherry Bomb Coffee, The Ace restaurant, the Inter Steer pub, Barque and many more, are all big reasons why we've enjoyed living in the Roncesvalles area as much as we have. It's a damn shame it didn't work out, but maybe someday we'll be back, hopefully in better, less crazy circumstances.<br />
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As for the recipe itself, I probably didn't get enough of a char on the fish (you do want it good and black), but it still came out moist and flavourful. I guess I'll have to give this another try in my new kitchen!<br />
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<strong>Nobu's Miso-Marinated Black Cod</strong> (Adapted from Nobu: The Cookbook via the Kitchn)<br />
Serves 4<br />
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1/4 cup sake<br />
1/4 cup mirin<br />
4 tablespoons white miso paste<br />
3 tablespoons sugar<br />
4 black cod fillets, about 1/2 pound each<br />
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Two to three days beforehand, make the miso marinade and marinate the fish. Bring the sake and mirin to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Boil for 20 seconds to evaporate the alcohol. Turn the heat down to low, add the miso paste and whisk. When the miso has dissolved completely, turn the heat up to high again and add the sugar, whisking constantly to ensure that the sugar doesn't burn on the bottom of the pan. Remove from heat once the sugar is fully dissolved. Cool to room temperature.<br />
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Pat the black cod fillets thoroughly dry with paper towels. Slather the fish with the miso marinade and place in a non-reactive dish or bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Leave to marinate in refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. <br />
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To cook the fish: Preheat oven to 400°F. Preheat a grill or frying pan. Lightly wipe off any excess miso clinging to the fillets but don't rinse it off. Place the fish skin-side-up on the pan, and grill until the surface of the fish browns and blackens in spots, about 3 minutes. Flip and grill or broil until the other side is browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to the oven and bake for 5 to 10 minutes, until fish is opaque and flakes easily.The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-61769102818154279982013-04-03T09:22:00.000-07:002013-04-03T09:22:35.679-07:00Brighten up<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8616993594/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8529/8616993594_e58bd10e0d.jpg" /></a><br />
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Now here’s a salad with some guts. Not the offal kind, but a big, bright and ballsy dressing that will smarten up even the saddest bit of lettuce with bright citrus flavours and tangy capers. <br />
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Flavour wise, this comes off like a less creamy Caesar dressing, so I went with some shaved parmesan for garnish, but it’s good enough to stand on its own. Segmenting the lemon can be a pain, so one could skip that bit and just use the juice and zest of a lemon, but I find incorporating the lemon segments into the salad gives a nice unexpected boost to the flavours. <br />
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<strong>April Bloomfield's Lemon Caper Dressing (adapted from “A Girl and Her Pig” via </strong><a href="http://food52.com/recipes/16940-april-bloomfield-s-lemon-caper-dressing" target="_blank"><strong>Food 52</strong></a><strong>)</strong><br />
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1 medium lemon<br />
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots<br />
1 heaping tablespoon Dijon mustard<br />
1 tablespoons drained capers, finely chopped<br />
1/2 teaspoon Maldon or another flaky sea salt<br />
1/2 teaspoon superfine sugar<br />
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil<br />
1 clove garlic, minced<br />
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Segment the lemons over a bowl to catch the juices (see below) and reserve segments. Squeeze the juice from the membranes into a separate bowl, add the rest of the ingredients, and stir well. Add the lemon segments and toss gently to coat them without breaking them up. Use straightaway or chill in the fridge, covered, for up to an hour.<br />
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To segment the lemon, use a sharp knife to cut off just enough of the fruit's top and bottom to expose a full circle of the flesh on either end. Stand the lemon on one of its ends, place your knife point at the seam where the fruit meets the pith, and use a gentle sawing motion to cut away a wide strip of pith and skin, following the curve of the fruit from top to bottom. Repeat the process until all you have left is a nice, round, naked fruit. If you've missed any white pith, trim it off. Make a cut down either side of each segment, right against the membrane, and gently pry out each segment, one at a time (see slideshow). Flick out any seeds, and set the segments aside in a bowl, reserving the juicy membranes.The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-54441206132615395492013-03-28T13:22:00.002-07:002013-03-28T13:22:15.655-07:00Ssäm of these days<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8569727855/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8247/8569727855_e665fbc680.jpg" width="374" /></a><br />
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It’s probably fair to say to say David Chang, founder of the Momofuku empire, is probably the most influential figure in the food world. When I think about some of the places I’ve eaten at in the last few months (like A-OK foods and OddSeoul here in Toronto or Talde in New York) or big name places I haven’t (Mission Chinese Food, Pok Pok PDX), it is difficult to imagine them even existing if Chang had blazed a trail for hipster takes on Asian fusion cuisine. Heck, you'd certainly have to give Chang a fair amount of credit for the ubiquity of pork over the past few years.<br />
<a name='more'></a>While in New York last month, I snagged a copy of the Momofuku cookbook, featuring recipes from his first three restaurants: Noodle Bar, Ssäm Bar and Ko. It’s a great read, which is always nice in a cookbook. The backstory is as interesting as the recipes themselves, which is a good thing since many of the latter involve ingredients or techniques that would probably put them out of reach for the average home cook (and I am a very average home cook). Still, there’s enough in there that piqued my desire to try something that at least evoked the spirit of the thing. I decided on ssäm, a Korean lettuce wrap and bane of pigs everywhere.<br />
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I managed to find a very small piece of pork belly at the local meat market that would easily feed two people. Marinated in a spicy bulgogi sauce and slow roasted, this would be the centrepiece. From there it was simply a matter of pulling together a couple of sides and condiments. The whole thing actually took me two days (I made the pork and the plain rice the day before serving), but one could manage this whole thing in a day with a few shortcuts. This was a lot of fun to make and eat (I had a friend over and we ate standing in the kitchen with a few cold beers) and I’d definitely do it all over again. But it also made me want to get out and try the real thing. Thank goodness there’s Momofukus in Toronto now.<br />
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<strong>Pork belly ssäm</strong><br />
1 pound piece of pork belly (skinless)<br />
For: marinade<br />
2 tablespoons gochujang (Korean red chili pepper paste)<br />
½ teaspoon red chili flakes<br />
2 tablespoons soy sauce<br />
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar or mirin<br />
2 tablespoons sugar<br />
1 teaspoon sesame oil<br />
1 tablespoon minced garlic<br />
1 tablespoon grated ginger<br />
1/8 teaspoon black pepper<br />
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Add marinade ingredients to a bowl and stir until well combined.<br />
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Score fat side of the pork belly with a sharp knife. Coat with a generous slathering of marinade, cover and refrigerate for four hours or overnight. <br />
<br />Take belly out of the fridge and let sit for an hour before cooking. Preheat oven to 450F, place pork on a rack on a rimmed baking sheet or shallow roasting pan and roast for 15-20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 250F and let the pork cook for another hour or so until the internal temperature is 145F. Remove from oven. If serving immediately, allow pork to rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Otherwise, let cool and refrigerate to be sliced and reheated in a hot pan.<br />
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<strong>Momofuku’s ginger scallion sauce (makes about 3½ cups)</strong><br />
2½ cups thinly sliced scallions (greens and whites; from 1 to 2 large bunches)<br />
½ cup finely minced peeled fresh ginger<br />
¼ cup grapeseed or other neutral oil<br />
1½ teaspoons soy sauce, preferably usukuchi (light soy sauce), found in Asian markets<br />
¾ teaspoon sherry vinegar<br />
¾ teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste<br />
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Mix together the scallions, ginger, oil, soy, vinegar, and salt in a bowl. Taste and check for salt, adding more if needed. Though it's best after 15 or 20 minutes of sitting, ginger scallion sauce is good from the minute it's stirred together up to a day or two in the fridge. <br />
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<strong>Kimchi fried rice</strong><br />
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1 tablespoons vegetable oil<br />
1/2 cup kimchi, roughly chopped<br />
1 teaspoon gochujang (or more, if you like it spicier)<br />
1 cup cooked white or brown rice, preferably leftover<br />
1-2 teaspoons soy sauce<br />
1-2 eggs, lightly beaten<br />
1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil<br />
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In a large skillet, heat the vegetable oil over high heat. Add the kimchi and gochujang and stir-fry for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until hot and fragrant. Add the rice and soy sauce and stir-fry for 1-2 minutes, until hot. Taste and add more soy sauce or salt if needed.<br />
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Push the rice over to one side of the pan and pour in the egg. Scramble into soft curds and mix into the rice. Drizzle with sesame oil and mix well before serving.<br />
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<strong>Assembly</strong><br />
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Cut the pork belly into slices or chunks, depending on your preference. Take the whole leaves from one head of washed butter lettuce and pile with the pork belly, rice, scallion sauce and drizzle with reserved marinade or a bit of sirracha.The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-38360000442754477682013-02-27T14:15:00.001-08:002013-03-15T08:53:21.526-07:00Hail to the Cheeto<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is totally true. Nonetheless, <a href="http://www.motherjones.com/tom-philpott/2013/02/food-industry-michael-moss-junk" target="_blank">this</a> and <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2013/02/24/magazine/the-extraordinary-science-of-junk-food.html?pagewanted=1&_r=4&" target="_blank">this</a> are good and important reads.<br />
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The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-54089998047086349932013-02-26T12:46:00.003-08:002013-02-26T12:47:22.317-08:00Bangers and the blues<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8499229740/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8090/8499229740_8bffd7ed92.jpg" width="358" /></a><br />
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They call this stuff comfort food for a reason.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Last week, the combination of the post vacation blahs and the winter blues, work, and our ongoing issues with our current living situation (our noisy upstairs neighbours, who were supposed to have moved out more than a year ago are still lingering like a bad smell) were getting us down. And despite our best intentions to eat right, we needed a hit of salt and fat to bring a feeling of contentment and happiness, even for only as long as mealtime. Sometimes the recipe that is good for you ain’t necessarily the one that is the most healthful. <br />
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<strong>Sausages and mash with onion gravy</strong><br />
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A few good quality sausages (preferably classic English bangers)<br />
One large onion, sliced.<br />
One clove of garlic, minced<br />
One cup beef stock<br />
One teaspoon flour<br />
One heaping tablespoon smooth or grainy Dijon mustard.<br />
One pound Yukon Gold or other waxy potato, peeled and quartered<br />
Salt and pepper<br />
Butter<br />
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Cook sausages in a little fat or oil in a heavy pan until well browned. <br />
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Set aside and add onions and garlic to remaining fat and cook until deep gold and caramelized.<br />
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Sprinkle with a generous dusting of flour and allow to brown very lightly.<br />
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Pour in stock a little at a time, stirring constantly, bring to the boil, season, then simmer for 10-15 minutes until gravy is your preferred consistency. Whisk in additional flour or stock if it’s too thin or too thick. <br />
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Whisk in mustard, then return sausages to pot to reheat.<br />
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Meanwhile boil the potatoes in lightly salted water until tender. Drain and mash with a generous slab of butter till light and fluffy. Serve with the sausages and onion gravy.The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-78640162585729556382013-02-21T09:21:00.000-08:002013-02-21T09:21:50.545-08:00Big Apple bites<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8493100800/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8087/8493100800_2d56dd8675.jpg" width="454" /></a><br />
What can you say about New York City that hasn't been said or that can truly capture it all? Is there any other place that looms so large in our culture? On every level, New York City is huge. Is it any wonder I was apprehensive about visiting the place? <br />
<a name='more'></a>Turns out, I needn't have worried. Despite its size, NYC is a relatively easy city to traverse. It helps to be hyper-organized and not too worried about seeing every damn thing (a travel trap I've fallen into more than once in the past). All told, I think we did well to balance sightseeing, shopping, museum-visiting and, of course, eating and drinking. On that last score, here are a few highlights.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8492007739/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8097/8492007739_e7da680283.jpg" width="374" /></a><br />
<a href="http://shakeshack.com/" target="_blank">Shake Shack</a> - Okay, it's burgers and fries and shakes. But this is classic Americana done <em>right</em>. Smashed burgers, crisp fries, thick, creamy shakes. Simple, delicious. We visited the location on the Upper East Side on Lexington, but <a href="http://creamandsugar.ca/shake-shack-new-york-shack-burger-madison-square-park/" target="_blank">I'm told</a> the original in Madison Square Park has the best setting, especially in summer. A must visit.<br />
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<a href="http://www.schillersny.com/" target="_blank">Schiller’s Liquor Bar</a>- Cool haunt in the Lower East Side (our 'hood for this trip) with cuisine that spans the globe and a wine list that is divided into “cheap,” “decent,” and “good.” Nothing too fancy, just good food in a lively atmosphere.Decor is self-consciously unfussy. Be sure to check out the bathrooms.<br />
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<a href="http://www.pokpokphatthai.com/home" target="_blank">Pok Pok Phat Thai</a>-Cousin to Portland's Pok Pok and its Brooklyn outpost, Pok Pok NY, this is a literal hole in the wall L.E.S. noodle joint that dishes up cheap and delicious variations of pad thai. Ideal for sopping up many cheap Pabst Blue Ribbons.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8492116995/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8529/8492116995_c843b97623.jpg" width="382" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://thebreslin.com/" target="_blank">The Breslin</a>- I had very high hopes for this April Bloomfield (The Spotted Pig) spot in the oh-so-trendy Ace Hotel uptown. Heavy gastropub grub for uptown hipsters is right in my wheelhouse. Perhaps it was due to timing (we visited on Valentine's Day) or our location (right near the kitchen, giving us a good view of Bloomfield herself at work on the line, but also bathing our table in a gloom-piercing glare), but I walked away a little let down. The Caesar salad we shared with local girl <a href="http://creamandsugar.ca/about/" target="_blank">Rhianna</a> was outstanding, but my lamb burger (something of a signature dish, I'm told) was a crumbly, underdone (partially my bad for taking the recommended route of ordering medium rare), underflavoured meatwad. D's vinegared poussin also underwhelmed. But the thrice-cooked fries (crispy outside, buttery soft in) were worth the visit on their own.<br />
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<a href="http://taldebrooklyn.com/" target="_blank">Talde</a>- Normally, asking me to wait two hours for a table is a sure way to see me pull a quick about face. But when the restaurant in question is a new spot in a red-hot Brooklyn 'hood, I might stick around. And when it comes to Top Chef U.S.A contestant Dale Talde's (for those who care about such things) Asian outpost in Park Slope, the wait was worth it. Family-style pan-Asian from bacon-flecked pad thai to crispy gyoza to Korean fried chicken. Risky, inventive and, on this night, remarkable.<br />
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<a href="http://weatherupnyc.com/" target="_blank">Weather Up</a>- Fancy cocktail place in Prospect Heights Brooklyn. Beautiful people, beautiful drinks. Don't ask me where to find it, though, because things were a little hazy at this point for some reason.<br />
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<a href="http://maltandmold.com/" target="_blank">Malt and Mold </a>- I don't know why there aren't more places specializing in craft beer and fine cheese out there. The world would be a better place, I'm sure. A real gem and part of a cluster of neat spots in an otherwise nondescript part of East Broadway (neighbouring coffee shop Pushcart Coffee being another, along with our next entry...)<br />
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<a href="http://www.cowboypizzanyc.com/" target="_blank">Cowboy Pizza</a>- New York is famous for its pizza; two buck slices are everywhere. So what's so special about this place? For starters, the toppings are a step beyond the usual pepperoni and mushroom. And for another, the two young dudes who run it will let you bring in beer from the local bodega to have with your pie. I'm not sure what else you really need. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8493109258/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8387/8493109258_e48c7ee160.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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Thanks for everything, New York! We'll see you again soon.The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-19463039313278015152013-01-16T09:29:00.001-08:002013-01-16T09:29:04.708-08:00Lighten up<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8381271858/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="374" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8216/8381271858_5b37f55bc9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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Like everyone else in the universe, we’re starting off the new year by trying to eat a little healthier. Nothing extreme, mind you: our diet isn’t all that bad to begin with, but it never hurts to be more mindful of the things you are putting in your body. So we’ve been spending the last few days trying to eat lighter and drink less.<br />
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Week one went well: lots of whole grains, fish (I’m really getting into fish), and plenty of vegetables. We kicked off week two with a lighter take on the Sunday roast with low fat pork tenderloin standing in. I wanted something light, but still comforting, so I made a spice rub with juniper and rosemary, resinous, woodsy flavours that make me think of snowy days and Nordic forests. This would pair well with something tart, like a sour cherry coulis or even some of the lingonberry jam you can get at IKEA! <br />
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<b>Pork tenderloin with juniper and rosemary</b><br />
1 pork tenderloin, about 500g or so<br />
1 tablespoon juniper berries<br />
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary<br />
1 teaspoon black peppercorns<br />
½ teaspoon coarse salt<br />
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Preheat oven to 350F. Coarsely grind juniper, rosemary, pepper and salt in a spice grinder. Trim pork of excess fat and silverskin and rub all over with spice mix.<br />
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Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed, oven proof pan until it shimmers. Add pork and brown well on all sides.<br />
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Transfer pan to oven and cook pork for 20 minutes, turning halfway through, until an instant-read thermometer shows an internal temperature of 140F. Remove from oven and let rest in pan for 10 minutes before carving and serving.<br />
*****<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8387364554/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8473/8387364554_5ab14c5e16.jpg" width="374" /></a><br />
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One of the most interesting things about taking a dietary diversion is the way it makes you to try new things and look at sources you might not otherwise consider. I picked up Yottam <span lang="EN-US">Ottolenghi's "Plenty" last year and received its follow-up, "</span><span lang="EN-US">Jerusalem," for Christmas, but I can't say I've turned to them that often, probably because many recipes are either quite labour-intensive or require ingredients you don't tend to find at your local supermarket. But this simple salad intrigued me and, after stumbling upon sumac at the local Bulk Barn (of all places) I thought I'd give it a go and, wow, is it good. just a really interesting mix of spicy and sweet flavours and different textures. And compared to a lot of other </span><span lang="EN-US">Ottolenghi creations, dead simple to make. This one is definitely going to be a dinner table regular long after I'm back to red meat and beer.</span><br />
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<b>Baby Spinach Salad with Dates and Almonds (from Jerusalem by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi) </b><br />
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1 tablespoon white wine vinegar<br />1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced<br />3 1/2 oz/100g pitted Medjool dates, quartered lengthwise<br />2 tablespoons/30g unsalted butter<br />2 tablespoons olive oil<br />2 small pitas, roughly torn into 1 1/2-inch pieces<br />1/2 cup/75g whole unsalted almonds, coarsely chopped<br />2 teaspoons sumac<br />1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes<br />5 ounces/150g baby spinach leaves<br />2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice<br />salt<br />
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Put the vinegar, onion, and dates in a small bowl. Add a pinch of salt and mix well with your hands. Leave to marinate for 20 minutes, then drain away any residual vinegar and discard.<br />
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Meanwhile, heat the butter and half of the olive oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add the pita and almonds and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring all of the time, until the pita is crunchy and golden brown. Remove from the heat and mix in the sumac, red pepper flakes, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Set aside to cool.<br />
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When you are ready to serve, toss the spinach leaves with the pita mix in a large mixing bowl. Add the dates and red onion, the remaining olive oil, the lemon juice, and another pinch of salt. Taste for seasoning and serve immediately
The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3591830278820452142.post-7487847524687544962012-12-05T07:22:00.002-08:002013-01-08T08:59:54.894-08:00The warmest part of the winter<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8247328724/" title="chorizo potato soup by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="chorizo potato soup" height="240" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8484/8247328724_2fbd7db247_n.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
As I write this, it's about 11 degrees here in Toronto and raining. The kind of weather that makes you think about spring cleaning and digging your shorts out of storage more than stringing up Christmas lights. Call me crazy, but I'm not a fan. I like my seasons <i>seasonal</i>, you know? If you're in a place where it's actually looking like proper winter, you might find these recipes handy.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8247328724/" title="chorizo potato soup by barlights76, on Flickr"></a><br />
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The Swedish Chef and I had a chat recently where we agreed that soup is not, in itself, a meal. Unless you're sick, it's pretty hard to get excited about soup for dinner. This, though, might be an exception to that otherwise ironclad rule. Smoky, spicy, this soup has your meat and potatoes and greens in one handy bowl. What else do you need?<br />
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<b>Potato Soup with Kale and Chorizo</b> (adapted from Bon Appétit)<br />
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Serves 4<br />
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided<br />
1 large onion, finely chopped<br />
1 clove of garlic minced<br />
250 grams Spanish (dried cured) chorizo, sliced <br />
2 teaspoons smoked paprika<br />
1 pound russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices<br />
4 cups low-salt chicken broth<br />
A large bunch of kale, stemmed and torn into small pieces (about 4 cups lightly packed)<br />
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Heat oil in large pot over medium heat. Add sliced chorizo and cook until crispy. Set aside and let drain on paper towels.<br />
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Add onion to pot and cook until translucent, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and cook about a minute. Stir in paprika and cook, stirring, for one minute. <br />
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Add potatoes, chorizo and broth. Increase heat and bring to boil. <br />
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Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender (about 30 minutes)<br />
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Add kale; stir until wilted, about 5 minutes. Serve.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_fury/8240684429/" title="Untitled by barlights76, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="320" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8204/8240684429_9a60390373_n.jpg" width="239" /></a><br />
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Usually when I think of what I want to cook, I start with a main ingredient ("let's have chicken!") and go from there. This dish came to me fully-formed. one day I just <i>knew</i> I wanted something with some heft and depth. A <i>ragu</i> of sausage and tomatoes, weighted with the richness of red wine and rosemary. I couldn't find any recipes that fit the bill, so I went ahead and made one. And, if I may say so myself, I pretty much nailed it.<br />
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<b>Sausage and tromato ragu with red wine and rosemary</b><br />
Serves 4<br />
1 pound sweet Italian sausage, casings removed<br />
1 cup diced shallots<br />
1 glove garlic, minced<br />
1-2 sprigs rosemary<br />
2 bay leaves<br />
1 tablespoon tomato paste<br />
1 cup red wine<br />
1 28 ounce tin whole tomatoes (I like San Marazano)<br />
salt and pepper<br />
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Heat two tablespoons of oil in a Dutch oven or deep skillet and add sausages, breaking them up as you go and cooking until golden brown. remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.<br />
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Add shallots to the pot and sweat until translucent and starting to soften. Add garlic and cook until fragrant.<br />
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Stir in tomato paste and cook for about a minute or until the paste turns a deep brick red colour. Add rosemary, bay leaves and then the wine. Bring to a simmer and cook until wine is reduced by half.<br />
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Add tomatoes and break up with a wooden spoon. Stir in reserved sausage and a touch of salt and let the whole thing simmer for at least an hour until liquid is reduced and sauce is thickened. <br />
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Season with additional salt and plenty of black pepper. Serve over pasta with a sprinkling of fresh grated Parmesan.The Kitchen Fronthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16201297477373109252noreply@blogger.com0